Learning to set fancy cut stones!

purple amethyst emerald cut gemstone ring
Purple Amethyst Emerald Cut Gemstone Set In Sterling Silver Ring Band

Learning to make a an emerald cut bezel setting is a new revelation! I see why they call it a "fancy" cut. It sure is a fancy thing if you can make one of these I would say. It really isn't that easy and takes good practice. After taking a few lessons with my instructor Jim Dailing..I have now learned to set stones in a flush setting and tapered heavy bezel settings for the round stones and cushion cut stones. And oh yes..the emerald cut stone..which has 8 cut sides.

fire citrine gemstone cushion cut ringCushion Cut Fire Citrine Gemstone in a tapered tube bezel setting

My all time favorite setting is tapered bezels which has always been so intricately hard to understand and calculate. You see, I am not a math kind of girl..nope hate it. Now it all comes back to me as to why my teacher was trying to teach me all of those formulas in geometery. I now wish I paid attention! I purchased a cushion cut tapered bezel stamp from Italy..NOT CHEAP! I better like using this thing I would say! But, here is one of my pieces from the bezel punch. I used 18g fine silver to make this tapered cushion cut bezel with the punch..and then I hand cut a seat for the stone to sit. FUN!

aquamarine gemstone in a gold bezel ring
Romantic Aquamrine set in 14 solid gold bezel and set on a beautiful flower patterned ring band

Okay so I bit the bullet. I am and have decided that I am going to be offering solid gold pieces. I have been working with gold filled and this has helped me gain confidence in finally feeling like I know what I am doing with gold. I love the look of this metal, but we all know it is at its all time highest and truly very expensive for a small time jeweler like me. But, I really feel that I need to grow in this area. I have had 5 rose cut diamonds setting here waiting for a home. Of course they need that gold home..ha ha! I am going to take some photos of them and post them here on the blog.

Anyone interested in a rose cut diamond ring? Let me know..would be thrilled to make one!

Have a great day everyone and you can see all of my work here in my shop at HelenesDreams.com.


Wedding gift ideas said...

Love the varied colored stones in rings.I myself like chunky rings....with the sizes of the stones being larger than life.Love your collection here.

Jen said...

So beautiful!!! I love it!

nancy said...

Lovely rings, can you post a picture of the Italian tool you mentioned?

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Initial Charms said...

Not only have you learnt the art of placing the stone well..they look very gorgeous in all with the delicate filigree work on the border of the ring too.These are the little details that impress the buyer and make the piece unique.

Ring Rolling said...

Looks great! The colors of the stones in the rings are the best part. Thank you for sharing this.